Cinque Terre & Porto Venere

Cinque Terre or "5 Terre" as found on many signs.  I prefer Cinque.  Porto Venere isn't part of the 5 but was a bonus stop for me before heading back.

My gateway was La Spezia.  From there I travelled by bus to the top of Manarola whereby I walked down into town to catch the beginning of the trail to Riomaggiore.   There's a cute cafe in town right by the tunnel leading to the train station run by a young couple.  I had a freshly squeezed orange juice there.  Only 2 Euros!

Manarola is a small sleepy laid back town.  I think the locals are so used to people coming to and from the trail they don't pay you much attention.  As you'll notice in some of the pictures, the main town roads often leads to the water and I mean right into the water.  These villages really do live up to being as stunning in real life as you see in photos. 

If you aren't into hiking (I use the word loosely because the trail from Manarola to Riomaggiore is paved and flat with railings, making it too sterile for my liking.  Trails to the other villages are more rugged.) you can always take the train.  I understand there is a day pass you can buy which allows you to go to all the Terres in 6 hr.  No train for me this time.  It was either walk or ferry.  Apparently trains go mostly through the rock so views are limited. 

Ferry tickets are frequently sold literally on card tables by the ferry "dock" and schedules are printed on small coloured pieces of paper.  It is first come first serve so consider yourself warned.  If you are going to walk between the villages, you have to buy a ticket.  It isn't free.  And be prepared for numerous tour groups going both ways. 

People with physical limitations will find it difficult in the Terres.  Wheelchair accessibility is not a priority.  I saw one gentleman with crutches try to get off a ferry and it was a struggle.  Ferries have a narrow walking ramp (one person width) that they roll off the bow of the ship and as the boat bobs up and down, so does the ramp.

The most picturesque of the villages for me is Riomaggiore.  It has all the visual elements, the right size to make life there convenient.  The village I felt most at home was Vernazza.  As the ferry approached, I could already feel its warmth.  It wasn't the most picturesque Terre I saw but I did not know it before the disaster last Oct.  They are still rebuilding.  Along the coast you can see where the landslides are still blocking part of the trail and train passages.  I didn't make it to to Corniglia this visit.

There is a photo gallery exhibit hidden away off a clothing store/cellar, just to the right once you get off the ferry in Vernazza that shows pictures of the aftermath of the storm and mud slide.  They really need to do a better job with advertising as it is well worth the time to view and they would likely get more donations if more people knew.  The lady who was manning the gallery told me people had to move away for at least 3 months before they could come back home.  She was there when it all happened.  It was really touching speaking with her.

People don't have insurance (she didn't know what that was) and are paying for the rebuilding themselves.  There is a published book of those photographs that won an award last year you could buy.  All proceeds goes back to the town.  On the website link above, you can see before and after pictures of the town.  I am happy to report the gelato and art store have reopened and looks like the before pictures again.  People in this town have a very gentle demeanor.  If you feel moved, please consider making a donation. 

La Spezia on my way to Manarola

Top of Manarola

Super spot to have a coffee

You can see the trail behind leading to Riomaggiore

Riomaggiore

Notice the slope

The Ferry

First come first serve

The water wasn't calm

Just took the shot as waves retreated

Poster boards found around town in Vernazza

Corniglia

Porto Venere

You felt out of place here if you weren't

sporting a bikini or bathing suit

People just put towels on the rocks and sunbathe

Monterosso al Mare

They say the water by the beaches are still

"dirty" from the mud slides

but overall, the town was in way better shape than Vernazza

Vernazza

Flight

In a recent post, I mentioned how much I appreciated the new SkyPriority initiative by SkyTeam.  They must be pretty powerful to be able to affect passport security procedures at airports around the world.  I'm so glad my style of traveling works well with this air alliance.

Like a lot of things in life, you have to earn your perks and in this case, you definitely need to continue to travel to get to stay there (yeah, like you have to twist my arm much...).  The program seems to make it easier to stay once you've reached a certain level.  D called it an example of  how "the rich get richer".

Check out this chart and you'll see what he means.  Because of the bonus points you get at the Gold level and up, assuming similar levels of travelling each year (enough to get you there in the first place), it is virtually impossible not to maintain status. 

It is jumping to the next level that requires extra or extraordinary effort as I like to put it.  I would have to quit working to be able to have enough time to travel often enough for Diamond status.  Even then, I question whether my body would be able to physically handle it all.  Those 12 - 14 hr travel days have simultaneously gotten easier (by the above) and harder (the dead airplane air, the awful food, the sustained seated postures etc).

We have started to take more notice of the type of planes we fly in now.  Previously it wasn't an issue but we are getting to know the ones we like (A330s) and the ones that may sound cool historically (747s) but have the narrowest amount of leg room even for someone like me (I'm not a big girl).  Seeing D who is almost 6 ft 1" get into the same seat, and he prefers the window, can be a bit hilarious.  Thus the upgrading to economy comfort. 

A plane that has a 2-4-2 seating arrangement is more spacious than the 3-4-3.  I'm finding it harder and harder to sit in 3 seaters (usually 747s or 777s).  As I prefer the aisle seat, you may find yourself interrupted often.  During a night flight, when you are trying to sleep, it can get bothersome, especially when I have to unwrap myself from the blankets and remove my noise cancelling headset etc.  (yes, I'm sure I'm a sight to behold) You will need to upgrade to get to the 2 seaters.  On short flights, less than 4 hrs, I don't care what type of plane.  Those flights are over in a blink for me now.

My goal is to maintain Gold status until I no longer wish to travel as often anymore.  Once I start adding Asia to my list of destinations, I may even hit Platinum status without having to breath too hard.  To solidify the Medallion status for the year, I've needed to add one more trip to this year's travel roster. 

It will be a real eye opening one as it hits a couple of gorgeous places I've wanted to visit for a long time but are tougher to get to -- Cinque Terre and the Amalfi Coast.  My point of entry will be Barcelona as I had been yearning to return to La Boqueria ever since I first stepped foot into the market 6 years ago.  I plan to hit the Tapas bars with enthusiasm.  There's not a whole lot of time to get my Spanish on, but I have some ancient looking cheat sheets I made up years ago somewhere in my travel box.