Go to the Christmas market for the food. Who knew it was going to be an all out street food festival? I love strolling and eating and being drawn to enticing smells. We only ate at a restaurant 4 times that week and I had originally thought it would be mostly if not all restaurant meals like it was in May. No way.
You can eat all 3 courses easily pretty much everywhere. There were so many different types of wurst and beef sandwiches but if you go, try the potato pancakes. They were the best hash browns I've ever had (fyi has egg in it and they serve it with apple sauce(?) or tzatziki). And the waffles were light as air.
Didn't take to the gingerbread cookies (Lebkuchen). They were good and soft but I prefer a cookie with more ginger, enough to warm you up inside. Don't leave without trying a Splitterball -- A giant dark chocolate covered homemade marshmallow with waffle pieces inside. Quite sweet but addictive!
And don't worry if you didn't like the Gluhwein. There were at least 5 more colourful alternatives -- Burgundy, orange, clear (looked like a mojito), purple etc. Don't ask me their names. The only one I know is "Eierlikoer" or German egg nog. It is not as thick as what I am used to at home but had far more depth of flavour, likely due to the vodka and brandy in it -- No rum.
And the best part? They served it from what looked like a frozen drink dispenser but was medium warm, in a white wine glass topped with whipped cream! I'm supposed to be off eggs and dairy but I cheated and took 3 gulps. It tasted wonderful. Because the dispenser was sealed, the alcohol stayed in and was the most potent drink I had that week. Ended up getting a hive but was so worth it.