Why Langtang, Nepal?

The requirement of all volunteers set by a local disaster relief organization I found is the ability to do long and hard physical work primary with rock, at 11000+ ft altitude with minimal resources and comfort.  No running water, electricity.  Bring your own tent.

You also have to make it to the location on your own dime and time -- 9 hr bus ride (if you are lucky) from Kathmandu followed by a 2 day trek up.  As I couldn't verify much, I decided to test things out by going on a solo trek with a private guide and porter, without whom I would not have made it.

I didn't need a tent for this as we'd be staying at teahouses but I got everything I thought I would need into two 70L North Face duffels.  Had a combined weight limit of 15 kg which wasn't an issue.  I carried a 8 kg day pack with most of the weight being water.

My main sleeping bag was rated for -11 C and it wasn't enough.  My coldest night was ironically on the way down (3200 m / 10498 ft), in a room with 2 opposing windows that were so drafty, (super windy night) you could see from the curtains that some kind of wind tunnel was going on.  That night I used a silk sleeping bag liner and a summer sleeping bag as an outer bag over my warm mummy style one.

On me, I wore my icebreaker base and mid layers, fleece, insulated ski pants, wool socks, thin down jacket and my warmest down jacket on top, a ski neck tube, beanie and wool hat on top and I was still shaking.  It took forever to fall asleep that night.  Note to self:  Pick a room without windows next time, if possible!

The newly rebuild teahouses were made of floorboard instead of the traditional stone.  Families had to do what they could quickly for their sake as well as to get their businesses up and running in time for height of trekking season.  Even so, the season was very slow was what I heard over and over again.  It was obvious that many were struggling.  Trekkers were deterred by the post earthquake damage.

So the build quality wasn't the greatest.  No insulation and none of my bedroom doors closed properly.  Had to resort to using rope to close one door to only 5 inches open.  For sure awkward when you are trying to change or put clothes on after a shower when you room opens up to the main dining area...

My days were long.  Up at 6:15 am, packed up and at breakfast by 7:15 am,  and on the trail by 8 am.  Usually one 10 min tea break.  Half an hour for lunch.  Roll into the next teahouse by 5 pm if I am not having a slower than normal day.

Speaking of showers, don't expect much more than a bucket of warm water in a non insulated and somewhat open air outhouse style space.  From day 1, I decided that no matter how cold or expensive it may be, I would be taking one.

I accepted the risk of having wet hair that may not dry completely or at all, but I just could not skip it even though I had packed family size packages of wet wipes and dry shampoo.  I could tell that my request to buy shower water surprised the lodge owners.  They probably thought I was crazy for bathing at that time of day but you do what you need to do.

7:30 am Kathmandu bus station,

patiently waiting for my "Super Deluxe" bus to arrive.

Sit on the left side on the way up and pick the right side on the way down

for the most dramatic views.

Tip:  Have a headlamp with you at all times.  Those bathrooms are often dark
and could be a walk from where you room or eat.  In this case, through the kitchen.

Or completely open.

Post earthquake newly re-opened trail was covered with rock and debris.  Steep and unforgiving.

I had to take a minute to sort out the proposed route to get to that teahouse
for our tea break and beyond.  Was about 2 hours into my first day.
The phrase "Are you kidding me??!!" was on repeat in my head.

You wouldn't have wanted to be listening in on what was playing in my head 

when I was told that the trail continued up those rocks.  This was at hour 7 of day one.  

Wasn't impressed.  Needed both hands to scramble up.  Had 2 more hours to go.

Stopping wasn't an option.  You had to make it to the first village.

  

Newly re-opened village of Lama Hotel.

Photo taken morning of day 2 as by the time I got

there, it was starting to get dark and cool and 

you could already see your breath.

No electricity, needed to use my athletic tape to cover all the holes in the walls

between rooms.  Had to kill numerous critters before I could unpack.

Room made of wood, given small candles for light, almost 

burnt the place down when I nodded off before dinner.

Only 1 of 2 solar showers found.  They worked quite well.  

There was the occasional sparking sound that I tried not to think too hard about. 

View from dining area of tea house.

Only room that has heat -- Wood stove.  

Uses scrap wood lower down, yak dung higher up.

Progression

"Open up the oceans, jump on in

The masters of the coastlines beckoning

Unfold my only life vest, sink or swim

Through the everlasting worlds begin"

Liquorlip Loaded Gun, Sticky Fingers

A number of trips I took in 2016 involved pieces of preparation for Nepal.

Went to Uganda to see parts of a new country for sure, but also to learn how to camp again in a harsher environment, use a Steripen and pre-filter on unsafe (and horrible tasting) water, becoming accustomed to the lifestyle of having everything with you, testing gear etc.  Dealing with insects that can kill you was just a bonus.

Learned some great things about myself and compact living -- I loved it.  What I wasn't so great at was lugging everything around.  My shoulders have taken a beating over the years and now really dislike having anything over 8 kg on them.  So self supported multi-day backpacking will not be in my future.  I would consider trying to pull a sled for a winter expedition though.

Came away with a tremendous appreciation for the application of solar technology in remote places from both a daily as well as post disaster perspective.  Sure, I've read articles and seen cool pictures of expeditions where members had portable panels hanging on the packs.  But I hadn't anticipated how exasperating it would be trying to charge things via generators.

At that point last year, I didn't even own an extra power pack.  My life has now expanded to recognize the need for portable off grid equipment.  Enter Goal Zero.  My workout room and part of my walk in closet now serves as gear storage.  Along with D's bike packing, we now own 3 tents and I've got my eye on a winter one next.

Quito was my first time at a higher altitude.  My goal was to see how I would do with the teleferico ride up followed by the hike up to Pichincha volcano and if I'd discover any signs of altitude related symptoms.  I knew my goal was slightly higher then 4696 m (15406 ft) but the cost:benefit ratio of trying to get to La Paz, Bolivia instead for a short visit didn't make sense.

Equipped with Diamox (Acetazolamide) and deliberately not taking it the day before, I went for it. It was important for me to feel what the problem symptoms were so I could recognize it.  Had a plan to take meds and descend quickly at first signs.

Fortunately I did not feel the need for the meds.  Was waiting for signs after the teleferico before getting started with the hike.  I saw a number of people gasping for air and found myself doing the same about 3/4 of the way up, where I couldn't take more than 12 -14 steps before needing to stop and let my heart rate slow down.  If I still had hours to go, I would have taken the Diamox for support.

Another major thing I learned was that extra water requirement at higher altitudes is real.  I ran out of water before I made it to the top.  Couldn't believe it as I don't drink much when I hike.  But up there, I was parched even though temps were cool (had hat and gloves on).  Lesson learned the hard way.  It felt very uncomfortable, like my body was getting shrink wrapped from the inside out.  More than I ever felt in the Moroccan desert.  Enough that I practically ran all way back down.

On top of my regular training, we also spent time out west at our local ski hill so I could do hill repeats (530 m).  But alas, the above wasn't enough.  I came back with punctures and tread ripped off my hikers, torn plantar fascia (realized over time), strained soleus, messed up joints in my foot, ankle, knees (all that without ever falling!) and a nasty sunburn at the back of my neck and forearms.

Langtang, Nepal kicked my butt.  The healing is almost there.  The learning and training continue.

More Firsts

Madrid surprised us.  Very livable, easy to navigate with so much grand architecture, nice parques and better than reasonably priced.

Until now, my only frame of reference for Spain was Barcelona.  Not a great comparison as the region of Catalunya is in a league of its own economically.

Saw some stunning art at the Reina Sofia (those Dalis!) and Prado (knock our socks off exhibit by the Hispanic Society of America, beautifully and intelligently curated).

Goes without saying, ate some great jamon, tapas and boccadilos.  And you cannot go wrong with chirros and chocolat at any time of the day...

There is a tapas stall at the Mercado de San Miguel (forgot the name, but they are the only ones selling the giant olive types) that has a cava sangria drink (sold in a small champagne flute) that has enough alcohol content to knock you over.

The first time we ordered one each and I assumed it was because I'm a lightweight when it comes to drinking but D felt it after a couple of sips.  The second time we were there, we shared one and both of us were still spinning after.

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Managed to get opening night tickets to Don Giovanni at the Liceu as well as a concert ticket at the Palau many months ago.  Had never attended a performance at either place before.

Ingenious set design for Don Giovanni using modern methods.  I've seen this opera a number of times and their treatment of it at times was even better than the singing, which is saying a lot.

It was almost like they wanted you to just listen, not just look at the main characters and told more of the story visually but silently.  Never experience anything like it before.  Very sophisticated.

Missed the second act due to an untimely metro strike and the need to get back to my apartment to prepare for the flight home the next morning.  But the first half was immensely satisfying.

And the concert the Palau de la Musica did not disappoint either.  The highlight of the main concert hall for many is the glass ceiling.  There is a lovely old time tapas bar behind the modern glass facade of the courtyard that is worth visiting before or after.

Would recommend buying a ticket for anything that happens to be showing, just to get to be in that space.  Tickets are well priced and at times, not much more than the cost of a tour.

This was my 4th visit to Barcelona and a real crime that it took so long for me to embrace the ensaimada with catalan cream... Now I have to make up for lost time.

For the first time ever, Spain has overshadowed France for me.

A First

For the first time in my career, I saw myself making the happy decision to fully retire, in 3D.

To the extent that I followed it up with writing my retirement announcement.  Everything just flowed out.

Followed by finding out all I needed to do legally to wrap things up.  It's all sitting there waiting for a final decision.

The whole scene shocked, as it came quietly and unsolicited, like a deep knowing.

Now what?  It will continue to sit there until I get the next sign, whenever that may be.

Nice 2017

It was sad to see the changes to Nice this spring, as a result of the Bastille night attack.  Last year, the construction on the promenade was nearing completion and the wider walking space felt expansive.

This year, things were dug up again, as the plans were to add barriers in time for July (assuming for high season), to prevent future vehicles from entering and potentially killing more people.

Not only that, there were teams of 4 fully outfitted and armed soldiers all day, patrolling the promenade and the main street (Ave Jean Medecin).  I am sure the men and women are well qualified to respond to any untoward events but my reaction was a very strong "I don't want them here".

I've traveled to places where there were legitimate reasons to be cautious but Nice France does not, for me, come anywhere close to being one of them.  And the feel of the city has perhaps changed permanently with no indication that things will reverse any time soon.

***2nd & 3rd photos from Antibes, France***

In Progress

• All my registered holdings have finally been transferred over to the new account.  Was granted an extension on the "free trades" I was supposed to receive, as well as a reversal of yearly account fees (on top of transfer fee) due to the delay of the whole process.  Finally reaching a customer service agent who was actually capable of doing something and sticking with her has made all the difference.  The first group of settlements are expected to come through next week.
• Reached 7 km on the treadmill rehab.  Goal is 10 km, 3 - 4 times a week.  Slowing adding back rowing and biking on top of body weight exercises (not a joyful experience, have lost so much conditioning).  However, amazing what can happen when I actually follow instructions of icing and stretching...No one to blame but myself.  Am such a poor patient!  Incidentally, seeing "Wonder Woman" has super boosted my motivation -- I expected a great performance from Gal Gadot but wowza..Robin Wright!
• Meeting with a realtor to get an appraisal on our cottage.  Have been getting increasingly disenchanted with sitting in the car for even a few hours.  With the amount of flying I do and being around high densities of people for extended periods of time (why airline lounges are such a wonderful reprieve), I've developed less patience with being on the road.  
• Plus I've turned into a real homebody during my non travel times.  So the idea of driving across the country a couple times a year as a retirement option isn't appealing anymore.  Probably makes no sense, but if I'm going to sit that long, I want to be flying somewhere.  Of course the potential sale opens the whole capital gains can of worms.
• I wish I could say D's work life has settled but it hasn't.  It has escalated once again, not just for him but his whole department.  They cannot seem to find any peace there and everyone is working insane hours.   
• Our summer plans have had to change.  We were supposed to spend the end of it out west.  Got notice that the construction of our building parking lot will not be completed until October.  I refuse to stay in a noisy construction zone.  New plans (tentative still) will involve trekking, so I need to be able to do it.  Not a whole lot of reasonably priced options last minute so if we go, I will be using a bunch of points to get us there.  Already got dinged with cancellation fees on the airfares out west.

Tokyo # 2

Tokyo the second time was fantastic.  Didn't think I could like this city more but it happened.

A tip:  Isetan food hall, Shinjuku... Go right when it opens for an unforgettable welcome. NB:  They do not allow photographs.

I stayed in Ginza this time around.  Even if you are not into high end shopping, it is fun to walk around and admire the design and architecture of the many global flagship brands.

Not ashamed to admit I have 2 more flights, over the next 10 months, booked..and I can't wait.

Impressions of Seoul

I had difficulty with Seoul right off the bat.  Couldn't put my finger on it for a few days.  Felt a strong sense of unhappiness, lack of inner peace, mixed with suffering.  Made me feel un-grounded and uneasy.

It was a startling juxtaposition when you put it up against the backdrop of a modern city, full of high end shops and shoppers.  It was way more than the realization that large wealth gaps exist in many major cities.

The intensity of it felt similar to what I remember from Yangon.  Where I could sense peoples' hunger.  The area I stayed in Seoul, near the Namdaemun Market, felt poor to me and the older people who had businesses and stalls there worked tirelessly, some from 6 am all the way to 9 pm. There were also a number of 24 hour shops and restaurants.

Perhaps it was a coincidence that the flight attendant was surprised I was actually going to Seoul when she assumed I wouldn't need the landing card (never had that happen before).  Even more ironic I think, considering I was on a direct flight to Seoul from JFK, on Korean Air!

A second hint that this wasn't going to be an easy going trip, should have been the samples of make up foundation you receive when you buy a train ticket from the airport into the city.  I had 6 minutes to find my train (almost missed it too!), so never thought beyond it and wasn't able to refuse it either.

As someone who doesn't own a bottle of foundation, it was a bit unnerving to be surrounded by make up shops and people buying bags and bags of it in Myeong-dong.  And the number of young women with 5 - 7 small band aids on their face from having had cosmetic work done working at the metro stations, coffee shops... It had me questioning what world I had landed in.  And not to forget the intensity of analyzing looks from people young and old...

My days started with a morning walk up Namsan park.  Some road paths were rubberized and at 8 am, people were already coming down.  Don't underestimate the older hikers -- They are fast!  The pride is evident there.  Designated days were for sweeping and maintenance.  Many different groups (running, badminton, archery, visually impaired) use various parts and paths.  The archery, was particularly amazing to watch as they shot at targets over groups of trees.

You know where this is heading.  I was quite ignorant of the history of Korea outside of a couple of documentaries of North Korea.  Things would have made more sense had I been better prepared.  I had earmarked the trip as a fun, relaxing week in a modern city, full of conveniences and great food...with little to no work needed.

Instead I felt quite disturbed for the duration due to my ignorance of just how much the people had suffered.  How recent that was.  How disorienting it must be for them to be living at a time of such tremendous growth and pressure to succeed.  The strong focus on cosmetic surgery is an offshoot of that striving.  As are the poverty issues facing the older generation.

Now that I know a little bit more, I want to return and see the city through better eyes, to have another opportunity to process those feelings I remember in a way that makes sense.

(Should you find yourself in Seoul, and in particular Namsan park, consider eating at Mok Myeok San Bang, a well known restaurant located at the start of the Northern Circuit.  I ate their bulgogi bibimbap twice.  It was delicious!  Although they are written up in the 2017 Michelin guide, prices are down to earth.)

(Also, I was supposed to have flown on an A380, same route as the infamous "nut rage" incident. Unfortunately, there was an equipment change so ended up flying on a 747 instead.  Have another opportunity to try for the A380 next year.  For the aviation geeks out there, I'm also scheduled on an A350 later this fall.)

Seoul -- pictures first, narrative to come.

Delays

• D's car ended up needing an additional 3 weeks to get fixed.  The wrong part was ordered and the correct one was on back order... It took a bit of juggling with the loaner car and our other car to make things work.  
• The correct car part cost $400 more than the mere $80 that was quoted...
• To top it all off, the car made dragging noises during right turns on the way home...D was ready to throw it out. 
• But he ended up fixing it (some thin metal shield near the tire was bent).  Funny enough (not really), the dealership, when told about the sound, admitted to noticing it during their (paid) inspection but somehow couldn't figure out what it was...Last time we will be returning there.
• So, I'm 3 months into waiting for the last item to be transferred to my new investment account.  I haven't been used to having to follow up.  Guess I had been spoiled working with only full service brokerages (at a cost, I know) but I never had to worry that something was going to get done quickly, once decisions were made.
• I did vent my frustrations at a customer service agent (via email), knowing full well that he had no authority to make any real decisions.  But I was tired of the standard "Thank you for your patience" replies I had been getting.
• A dead tree needs to be cut down at the cottage this season.  Forgot to get the ball rolling in the spring.  But hopefully it won't take much longer now that it's on my radar.  Would like to get another quote before deciding who to go with.
• I've managed to dodge a number of major travel related delays that you may have read about on the news this year.  It has me re-thinking how closely I calculate my flights home.  Going to build in a bigger buffer as it is all a big numbers game and one day, it will be my time again.     
• My foot/ankle injury from Nepal is still plaguing me.  Quite frustrated with it.  Add to it a wrist and shoulder strain from bad positioning at work, and my workouts have suffered as a consequence.  There has been some improvement, just not fast enough for me.
• Thank goodness I put a lot of fun plans in place this year.  On balance, am definitely coming out way ahead despite what has been written above.  But human nature being what it is, easy to focus solely on the thorns.